Songzanlin
Monastery, or 'Little Potala' as it is affectionately known,
is a spiritual place that invites you to discover the mystery
and traditions of Tibetan Buddhism. Since the 5th Dalai Lama
chose the site through divination in 1679, the monastery has
grown into the most important community of its kind in Yunnan.
Naturally, throughout its history spanning 325 years there have
been ups and downs – the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976),
for instance, saw the lamasery almost completely destroyed –
but the strong faith of the people of Shangri-La has always
prevailed, and today Songzanlin once again houses more than
700 monks and lamas.
Built in the style of Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, the magnificent
monastery complex resides on top of a hill and consists of the
two Zhacang and Jikang lamaseries – which take on the
form of five-story Tibetan watchtowers – five gates, numerous
sub-lamaseries and hundreds of rooms for the monks. Walking
up the 146 steps that lead to the main prayer hall is a tiring
exercise at 3,300 meters above sea level, but it allows you
to trace mentally the pilgrimage route that generations of devout
Buddhists living on the plateau take on their knees and foreheads
every year.
On the way, you’ll come across study rooms where young
monks who typically enter the monk hood at the age of 5 are
trained in the scriptures and foundations of monastic life.
The range of subjects that these boys have to cover is wide,
from Tibetan language, grammar and literature to sutra chanting
and prayers. Time will be spent on the Buddhist canons, yet
crafts, astrology and medicine are also on the curriculum. In
addition, the boys retreat for hours each day to reflect and
meditate on the meaning and implications of Buddhist philosophy.
Having a conversation with a young lama is indeed an interesting
experience, if you are fortunate enough to speak Mandarin or
Tibetan.
The main scripture hall in the center of the compound is the
highlight of any visit, especially during prayer time in the
morning or during auspicious festivals when devotees come from
all over the province to take part in the festivities. The hall
itself can accommodate some 1,600 lamas sitting in meditation
or chanting Buddhist scriptures and features 108 imposing pillars.
As Songzanlin is affiliated with the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect
of Tibetan Buddhism, which is the order of both the Dalai Lama
and Panchen Lama, references to the sect’s history and
philosophy are found throughout the lamasery.
Amongst the monastery's many treasures are rare Buddhist scriptures
written on palm leaves, which have been used by previous Dalai
and Panchen Lamas, as well as the eight famous gold-covered
sculptures of Sakyamuni, the Indian prince who in the 5th century
BC founded Buddhism and is popularly known as the "Sage of the
Shakya Clan". Colorful murals painted by renowned lamas show
guardian deities, scenes from the Lord Buddha's life, and the
"wheel of life" that (held by the demon of impermanence) depicts
the six realms of existence: heaven, demigods, humankind, hell,
hungry ghosts and animals. The hub in the wheel's center symbolizes
ignorance, hatred and greed, the three poisons of life.
Incense and yak butter oil lamps set the mood for prayer and
meditation in the scripture hall, while yak butter flower sculptures
are displayed on several monastery altars. These sacred offerings
are made for wintertime when the meadows are decked in white
and real flowers are not available.
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